Bernese Oberland Day 7

Welcome to my personal diary of the trip to the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland in September 2003

Day 1 .. Travel to Switzerland
Day 2 .. Meiringen to Grindelwald .. the Grosse Scheidegg
Day 3 .. Grindelwald to Mürren .. the Jungfraujoch
Day 4 .. Mürren to Griesalp .. the Sefinenfurgge
Day 5 .. Griesalp to Kandersteg .. the Hohturli
Day 6 .. Kandersteg to Gemmipass .. Leukerbad
Day 7 .. Gemmipass to Engstligenalp .. the Chindbettipass
Day 8 .. Engstligenalp to Lenk .. the Ammertenspitze
Day 9 .. Travel to Zurich
Day 10 .. Travel home

The morning views from the Wildstrubel Hotel are even more stunning than those of last evening, since the skies are blue and it's been very cold overnight, with more snow at the higher levels. We're all going on the same route today .. and it's going to be a bit shorter than other days we've had and hopefully relatively easy going! Or is it??

After much early morning photography, and a good breakfast looking out on the southern panorama, we're packed and ready to go at 9am. The sun is out .. it's a bit chilly, but it's looking good all the way down to the Daubensee, the lake below the Gemmipass. We take the path on the west side of the lake and look over to the path on the east side, which yesterday's walkers took on their way up from the Schwarenbach.

As we turn away and head into the Rote Chumme, the ascent gets a bit serious, but it evens out a little and begins to climb again just as our favourite weather rolls in. Yes, we're In the Clag. And not only that, as we reach the top of the Rote at 2628m, we're into very fresh snow. The short descent into the bowl of the Talli is treacherous, with the fresh snow on the already slippy scree making difficult going .. just the conditions where an iceaxe would be a comfort!

The ascent to the Chindbettipass is a rising traverse on the steep east side of the Tierhörnli above the Tallisee, and the going is very difficult. But we reach the pass at last and one or two go looking for the high route along the Engstligengrat, while others have a short rest before the next stage. Diane enjoys the cake she's carried all the way up, and a group of apparently local walkers are enjoying a wee bevvy in the lee of the Chindbettihorn .. I hope none of them takes a tumble on the way down.

In the very thick clag, the planned route is far from obvious, and we decide to take the direct descent northwestwards for Engstligenalp. As we gingerly start the descent, the bevvy merchants quickly close the gap and are noisily itching to get past. The going improves as we drop below the snow line, but we're now into the alpine mud we enjoyed so much on day 5 .. but there's nothing for it but to keep slithering downwards.

Just as we reach the flat area of Engstligenalp, we also dip below the cloud level, and we can see the Berghaus ahead. Since Monday is staff day off in the Alps, I've arranged for someone to be 'in' to give us access to the room at least .. and not only are we shown to our sizeable matratzenlager, but the bar is also available for beers, served by the owner. The heating is fired up for our benefit, but food, however, won't be available until 7pm. After settling in, some decide to explore the area despite the thickening clag .. with some talk of taking the cable down to Adelboden .. while others are content to enjoy another nice quiet beer.

Dinner is, as usual, very good .. but the clag stubbornly remains. No stargazing tonight, then. Let's hope it's gone in the morning!