Bernese Oberland Day 5

Welcome to my personal diary of the trip to the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland in September 2003

Day 1 .. Travel to Switzerland
Day 2 .. Meiringen to Grindelwald .. the Grosse Scheidegg
Day 3 .. Grindelwald to Mürren .. the Jungfraujoch
Day 4 .. Mürren to Griesalp .. the Sefinenfurgge
Day 5 .. Griesalp to Kandersteg .. the Hohturli
Day 6 .. Kandersteg to Gemmipass .. Leukerbad
Day 7 .. Gemmipass to Engstligenalp .. the Chindbettipass
Day 8 .. Engstligenalp to Lenk .. the Ammertenspitze
Day 9 .. Travel to Zurich
Day 10 .. Travel home

Today's probably going to be the longest and most taxing .. and we'll also pass the halfway point of the trip. Liz has decided that she'll give it a miss and take public transport round to Kandersteg via Kiental and Reichenbach. And after an unwashed night of entertainment, the matratzenlager wasn't too bad at all.

After a 7.30am breakfast, we packed up and posed for the customary photocall before setting off (at 1400m) for the long slog up to the Hohtürli pass and the Blüemlisalp Hütte. The cloudy but warm conditions made for a sweaty ascent, and the first refreshment stop was taken at Bundalp at 1698m amid the strident clanging of cow bells. Once again, cheese was on sale and I bought yet another tasty wedge to savour along the route. Beyond Ober Bundalp at 1840m, we left the good track and started the long, steep ascent up the loose, black moraine and round into a wide and wild corrie below the pass. The going became much more exposed here and the group well spread out. The usual ropes and wires gave assistance at the tricky bits, and to prevent further erosion, a ladder of wooden steps has now been fitted near the top .. but the high degree of exposure once again unnerved Diane, who took a rest at a safe location halfway up the ladder.

The hares were no doubt comfortably seated in the hut restaurant, but the tortoises slowly progressed, making an arrival around 12.30 .. not a bad time at all! I felt that a round of schnapps would be appreciated .. not only to steady any frayed nerves, but also to toast the exact halfway point of the tour. The choice was enormous, even at 2837m! Not firewater, please, but something slightly smoother. And yes, that's 15 measures please!

Richard had discovered the delights of the rösti and fried eggs, which a few others then ordered. The weather on the other side of the pass wasn't good, and the view of the glaciers was fleeting in the fast-moving clouds. The temperature was much lower than down below, and the full kit had to go on before leaving for the descent. The hares set off well before the tortoises .. but remember the fable!!

On the descent, the heavy cloud began to disperse and the spectacular glaciers came into view .. obviously having receded quite a distance during this year's high summer temperatures. At Oberbärgli .. after some tough going on the slippy and sticky Alpine mud .. we were faced with a choice of two routes. Which had the hares taken? Did they stay high above the Öeschinensee, or descend to its shore? We'll stay high, and take our chances on a descent beyond the loch .. which should bring us close to the chairlift at 1682m for the last 500m down to Kandersteg.

This turned out to be a good decision, as the other group had taken the steep descent to the loch with some difficulty. Our views were spectacular, but the cloud rolled in again as we descended gently to the chairlift station .. and saw absolutely nothing from the side-facing chairs. In Kandersteg, the showers started, and the Hotel National was still about a mile from the main street shops .. in the direction of tomorrow's route.

Yes, we were first to arrive .. but to be fair, the others did walk down that 500m! The Hotel had apparently been a Youth Hostel in the past, and it looked like nothing had been done to it since. The dormitories were adequate, but obviously had never been cleaned since the millenium (or before) .. and the whole place had a Hitchcock-y hint of scariness. Liz was well established after her rest day and showed us where everything was. But at least there were showers, and they were hot!

Dinner was surprisingly good, and we all retired fairly early after a long day. It rained heavily all through the night .. thank goodness without any Hitchcock-y thunder and lightning!

"Remember that scary film called Psycho? Remember the BATES MOTEL?? Notice anything similar???"