Dolomites 2005 A personal diary ....

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Day 3: Friday 2 September

Rifugio Vajolet to Rifugio Alpe di Tires .. the Kesselkogel ascent

Not too bad a night’s sleep.  The overnight thunderstorms had cleared and we had a fine morning.  After breakfast, we got packed up and set off at 8.45am. We started the ascent to the Passo Principe.  The views on the way up were great and there were several photo stops on the way.  There were several messages on the lower slopes marked out with white rocks .. seems as if Alice had been there to leave a message for Allan!

We arrived at the Rifugio Passo Principe at 9.45am, which unfortunately appeared to be closed, and at that point we had to make the decision if we wanted to gear up to tackle the Via Ferrata to climb Kesselkogel.  After watching some others climb the route, eventually Andy, James, Gordon and Allan decided to leave their sacks and see if they could make it to the summit.  They would then come back down and take the shorter route through to the Rifugio Alpe di Tires (Tierser Alpl Hütte).

Well, what can I say?  We have 8 out of the 9 Club Munroists with us on this trip, and here's a golden opportunity to visit the summit of a 3000m peak .. yes, that's 10,000 feet in old money!  But after much humming and hawing, only 4 decide to make the first Club attempt on a Via Ferrata, or 'Road of Iron' loosely translated.  Remember, nothing is ever as it seems .. as well we know in Scotland, but also in the Alps!  It may LOOK difficult from down here .. but is it really??

Via Ferrata is a series of fixed metal ropes which offer security on rocky ascents to those who wear a harness and a karabiner set which can be clipped to the rope.  Of course, you have to unclip when you arrive at one of the fixing points, so you really must have two karabiner sets .. one to clip in above the fixing point before you remove the one below the fixing point, just in case you take the quick way down while totally unclipped.

But we are Scottish and we are tough .. and indeed we are VERY experienced at mountain climbing.  So why should a little via ferrata put us off?  If the worst comes to the worst, it's no problem to decide enough's enough and beat the retreat??  So the 4 of us decide to go for it and kit up accordingly.  It's chilly now at 2600m in the shade, and we put on our fleeces, gloves and hats in case it's even chillier at 3002m at the summit of the Kesselkogel (or Catinaccio d'Antermoia in Italian) .. and set off at 10am.

The initial approach presents a few problems.  We have an awkward sloping shelf to cross with limited headroom and there's no protection.  Then we turn a corner and face a grade 2 vertical scramble, again with no protection.  Oh dear!  Then a short Collie's Ledge with the first 'ferrata' to help, followed by a ladder descent and another Collie's Ledge.  But then it suddenly becomes a walk in the park by comparison and upwards progress is quickly made.  We're well up the hill by the time we spot the others on the Passo d'Antermoia.  Steep ascent means quick ascent .. or does it?

At 2900m I become very breathless and start to slow down.  The air is pretty thin up here, but I well remember our ascent of the Wildespitze in the Stubai in 1997, and I easily made 3100m before feeling like this.  Ah, the penalties of old age!  But it only takes 10 minutes or so to get over it, and we eventually arrive at the summit at 11.30am in glorious sunshine .. and there are already a number of people there.  We're a bit overdressed .. but hey, we're prepared for any conditions!

After a few photos, we start the descent .. and meet the hordes on the ascent.  Whole families are making the climb, including primary-school children!  Someone will have to organise a rota system for access to the summit cross .. maybe a German?

Safely back at the Passo Principe at 12.45pm, we have another map conference and eventually decide that the direct route to the Alpl involves a 200m ascent to the Passo Molignon at 2604m.  Off with the climbing gear and let's do it!  And the route has a sting in the tail!  On the final descent to the Rifugio, we have a short section of via ferrata which is quite tricky!  Glad we're not doing it on a wet day!!

We arrive at 3.15pm and the Rifugio staff are expecting us.  We enjoy a shower and something to eat before the others arrive.  First full day .. first ascent .. perfect weather .. what could be better??

Andy

The rest of us decided to head up to the Passo d’Antermoia.  We stopped there to take some photos and check on the progress of the others.  We could see them making their way up.  Through the binoculars we could make out a group coming down – including a boy who looked about 7!

We then set off on the track down to the Rifugio Antermoia.  It was an easy path that led to a flat area.  Looking back to Kesselkogel, we could see the other 4 on the summit.  As we passed the Lago d’Antermoia,  another walker decided to go in for a swim.  This was too much of a challenge for Ian who promptly did the same.  He was a slightly bluer colour when he came back out.

At the Rifugio, we ordered a round of drinks and then got some lunch.  It was very pleasant sitting there in the sun, but we eventually had to get moving again.  It was a short distance to the next col, Passo di Dona, where a group of men were busy putting up a new cable car frame.  Nearby there was a small hill and, so leaving our bags, we walked up it.  We were rewarded with great views.  Marmolada looked magnificent but we could also see most of the next day’s route, as well as some of the routes for the following days.  Needless to say, a lot of photos were taken.

We walked down a reasonable path to the next col, Passo Ciarègole.  From there, we had to take route 555 to the valley.  This was more like some of the paths in Scotland .. pushing aside bushes, ducking under tree branches and walking in small trenches.  On the way down, some purple coloured grasshoppers caught our attention.  However we did eventually get to the valley and, crossing a very dried out river, came to a good road track.

It was nice to find a good track .. the only thing was we were at 1950m and the Tierser Alpl was at 2440m!  Let’s not think too much about the climb just now!

It turned out to be a long haul, especially the last 200m ascent.  On the way up, we could hear some marmots but couldn’t spot them.  Eventually I made the col and there was the Tierser Alpl Hutte.  The other 4 had already arrived and booked in.  They were seated outside enjoying a beer.  When he arrived, Willie ordered up beers for the 6 of us and as Diane arrived last, the beers got delivered to the table.  In Diane’s case very good timing.

We are all in the one room tonight but the accommodation is good.  The shower arrangements are even more interesting.  There was one shower room with 2 showers and a communal changing area for all residents!

Dinner was at 6, so not all of us could get a shower until after we ate.  The food was good .. we had a choice from a menu and the wines and beers were reasonably priced.  We even got a complimentary schnapps after the meal!

After the meal, I got my shower and then I phoned ahead to the Rifugio Passo Sella to confirm that we would be there the next night, after which I rejoined the company.  I had to settle our bill that night but there was no problem, and it was less than I had thought it would be.

Some of the group headed for bed around 9.00, but as the bar closed at 10.00 the rest of us then headed up to the room.  I don’t know what started it but there was a fit of the giggles as we were getting into bed, which disturbed those already in bed.  However eventually everyone settled down for the night.

Bob MacDonald